In midday’s wake, Vama’s right wing presents a flurry of controlled activity. Spiffed up in a crisp white shirt and flawless denims (quintessentially Calvin Klein), Kevin Carrigan oversees gritty details on the eve of CK’s launch in Mumbai.

No one to miss an entrant on his sacred space, the 42-year old creative director of the colossal brand offers a seat. Although this isn’t his first visit, his purpose is different. “As a student, I’ve taken multiple trips here between 1985 and 1995, as a hippy traveler. Ten years later, India is still very exciting, and totally ready for the cool and edgy New York sensibility, characteristic of Calvin Klein,” says the Englishman.

As he twiddles his stylish tie (from the grey label), Carrigan takes a moment to explain the brand pyramid. “At the top, there’s the black or pure luxury label, followed by the grey label, for which I oversee both the men and women’s collections, and lastly white, comprising jeans under-wear which is what we are introducing now,” he says, adding that we can expect Grey by this year-end.

Calvin’s (synonymous with inners) made currency by Marky Mark, aka Mark Wahiber, and a teenage Brooke Shields courting here denims, the brand’s provocative ad campaigns made it a sensation with its Indian audience, long before its launch. “Celebrity culture in India is much like it is internationally. I think Indian celebrities sporting Calvin Klein underwear is a perfect match. Celebrities understand good design and good fit and we give them that, asserts Carrigan

From his grandma’s lessons in designing to stints at Nicole Farhi and Max Mara, Carrigan’s current vision is essentially to take CK’s New York minimalism to the world. “We are also about regional specialization, hence we never launch in a big way. We need to observe the Indian market before making larger commitments.” Says Carrigan.

India aspirations? “Vibrant colours, tie-and-dye from Gujarat and techniques from Lucknow.”